Beefsteak Tayar – Wikipedia

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Beefsteak-Tatar With egg yolk, capers and onions

Tatar without egg, as is often served in Switzerland

Beefsteak-Tatar ( English Steak tartare , French Bovine Tartar ) or Tatar (also Hacksteak-Tatar ) is a minced meat dish from the beef, which is made from raw high -quality, tendon -free and low -fat muscle meat such as upper shell, lower shell or nut and is finer crushed as a simple beef wood meat. A fat content of a maximum of 7% is permitted by law. [first]

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In Germany, the chopped beef is usually salted and peppered, in portions shaped to flat bales and a deepening is pressed into the middle, into which a raw egg yolk, finely chopped onions and anchovy fillets (or anchovis) as well as capers and possibly parsley and spice cucumber cubes are added. [first] The ingredients are then mixed directly on the plate. Mixed pickles and mixed bread are served, possibly also Worcestershire and Tabascosauce as well as wine brandy.

Mett (Hackepeter) made of a warm raw pork with salt, spices and onions, the so -called are similar to the Tatar, the so -called American fillet In Belgium and the Netherlands, which is a seasoned raw minced meat (often served with sauce on baguette), and chopper from salt hering or matjes, which is also called Matjestatar. Laughing statar is made from graved salmon or smoked salmon, but rather raw salmon.

In Italy there is that Kalbstatar Albese [2] ( raw meat in the Albese ). It becomes lean meat from the barrel-calf ( Piedmontese breed ) chopped ( knife beaten ). In the area around Verona there is a horse meat tartar ( horse tartare ).

Since raw minced meat spoils very quickly, Tatar and Hackepeter should be used up at short notice and until then. In the commercial sector in Germany, including the catering trade, the one applies here Animal food hygiene regulation (Tier-LMHV) that replaced the Hackfleisch Ordinance. After the guidelines of the German food book “Prepared” Schabeflisch, i.e. Tatar can only be marketed from low-tendon and fatty tissue beef, seasoning ingredients and egg yolk [3] .

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American Beef in France and Belgium

The development of refrigerated and freezer devices towards the end of the 19th century enabled the year-round enjoyment of fresh meat, which could offer raw minced meat in a variety of variants. What was created by the French master chef Auguste Escoffier in 1921 was known Beefsteak Tatar or Tartare , with the fine raw beef meat from the hip with a Tartar is served on a mustard and egg basis. It was also popular in French -speaking Switzerland in the 1950s and can still be found on “every Valais tavern card”. [4] The oldest known description of the court to date can already be found in the book published in 1851 Gastrosophie by Eugen von Vaerst. [5]

The court is named after the Asian steppe people of the Tatars, [6] Those who were still said to have rode raw meat pieces under their saddles and then consumed. [7] This stereotypical performance was already declared as myth by contemporary historians, for example in 1911 in the first volume of the Cambridge Medieval History . [8] The turkologist and director of the Institute for Caucasica, Tatarica and Turkestan studies Berlin-Magdeburg (ICatat) Steffen “Mieste” Hotopp-Riecke dealt in detail in 2011 with the origin of the name distributed in Germany Hacks Tatar (or. Hack meat tartar ). According to him, she was no longer [clear]. He classified the “Tatar” used ethnonym as a more secondary death and historically grown metaphor. [9]

In many cases, the name of the court and its emerging popularity with the novel published in 1876 became The Tsar’s Courier associated with Jules Verne. Hotopp-Riecke sees “one kitchen historian after the other” [9] Repeat such claims that a “Ta (r) tar” called “TA (r) tar” does not appear in the novel. In fact, only “Kulbat, a kind of pate made of rice, egg yolk and knocked meat” is mentioned in the novel. [ten] Hotopp-Riecke assumed that this was actually a cooked food.

The playwright Carl Zuckmayer, who (after his exile in the USA) settled in Switzerland in 1957, set the court in his rhymed essay The food A literary monument: “Beefsteak Tatare is almost as strong in mercy as a loin piece fried on the grill …”. [4] [11] The writer Thomas Bernhard, whose regular enjoyment of Beefsteak Tatar is documented, fictionalized the “bloody meat dish” in his play in 1972 The ignorant and the insane By using the food consumed by his protagonists as “metaphorical reflection” of “destruction” and the “idea of ​​self -destruction”. [twelfth]

According to the philosopher Roland Barthes, the consumption of the Beefsteak tatare Especially in the context of French cuisine as “an” an action that is conjured up against the romantic association of sensitivity and illness “to interpret:” In this type of preparation, all germ states of the matter are included: the bloody porridge, the slimy of the egg, the whole team sounds Soft living substances, a meaningful compendium of the images of the prenatal. ” [13]

  1. ↑ a b Herings Lexicon of the kitchen, 25th edition, page 41
  2. ↑ Henle, Eva, Red.: Ricette di Osterie d’Italia: The best recipes from Italy’s regions . Hallwag, 2010, ISBN 978-3-8338-2137-0.
  3. ↑ Section 2.507.3 of the Guide for meat and meat products , Announcement of September 23, 2020
  4. ↑ a b Carola Schniper: The Valais for beginners . Myths, clichés and gentle irritation . 1st edition. Rothus Verlag, Solothurn 2013, ISBN 978-3-9060-10-1, S. 48–51: Pure meat lust .
  5. ↑ PETA FOOD: How Bismarck came to the herring. Culinary legends. No & but, Zurich 2009, ISBN 978-3-0369-5268-0, p. 207.
  6. ↑ Entry at Duden online , accessed on August 23, 2014.
  7. ↑ Gert in. Paczensky, Anna Dünnebier: Empty pots, full pots. The cultural history of eating and drinking. Munich 1994, p. 510.
  8. ↑ “That the Huns and Tartars ate raw meat softened by being carried under the saddle, is a mistake of the chroniclers. At the present time the mounted nomads are accustomed to put thin strips of salted raw meat on their horses’ sores, before saddling them, to bring about a speedy healing. But this meat, impregnated with the sweat of the horse and reeking intolerably, is absolutely uneatable.” The Cambridge Medieval History, Volume 1, 1911, S. 340, Digitized ; See also Craig S. Smith: The Raw Truth: Don’t Blame the Mongols (or Their Horses) , New York Times, 6. April 2005.
  9. ↑ a b Hotopp-Riecke location: The stigmatized ‘others’ in secondary death – ‘Tatarnachricht’ and ‘minced meat tartar’ as German memorial places . In: Stephan Theilig (ed.): Historical concepts of physicality . Interdisciplinary approaches to transformation processes in history (= Cultures – communication – contacts ). Band 5 . Frank & Temmi, Berlin 2011, ISBN 978-3-86596-333-8, S. 107–136 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  10. ↑ Jules Verne: Jules Verne – collected works . 2015, ISBN 978-6-05038777-3. (Hotopp-Riecke 2011 quotes the sequence in a footnote p. 125)
  11. ↑ Christoph Gutknecht: From stairwitz and acidic torture period . The craziest words in German (= Beck’s series . No. 1845 ). Original edition. C.H. Beck, Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-406-56833-6, S. 186–187 .
  12. ↑ Jan Süselbeck: ‘Drink strategically’ and other habits . Some supplements on the subject of eating and drinking at Arno Schmidt, with special consideration of Thomas Bernhards . In: Thomas Bernhard Privat Foundation (ed.): Thomas Bernhard Yearbook 2004 . Böhlau Verlag, Vienna 2005, ISBN 978-3-205-77355-9, S. 73–89 .
  13. ↑ Roland Barthes: Beefsteak and French fries , in: Roland Barthes: Everyday myths . Translated from French by Horst Brühmann. Suhrkamp, ​​Frankfurt am Main 2010, ISBN 978-3-518-41969-4, pp. 100–103 (French original text: The dancing and the fries , in: Roland Barthes: Mythologies . Editions du only, Paris 1957).

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