Masherbrum – Wikipedia
| Masherbrum | ||
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The Masherbrum from the south from the hushe valley |
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| Height | 7821 m | |
| Make | Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) | |
| Mountains | Masherbrum-beerge (karakorum) | |
| Dominance | 30,6 km → Broad Peak | |
| Scharen height | 2457 m ↓ Masherdrum la ( 5364 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 38 ′ 34 ″ N , 76 ° 18 ′ 17 ″ O | |
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| First ascent | July 6, 1960 through George Bell and Willi Unsoeld | |
| Normalweg | Gelded high tour | |
North side of the Masherbrum from the Baltoro glacier |
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The 7821 m height Masherbrum is the seventh oxet in the Karakorum and is located in Gilgit-Baltistan, a special territory in northern Pakistan.
It rises between Baltistan in the south and the Baltorogletscher in the north and is still the highest summit in the ridge south of the Baltorogletscher, the Masherbrum mountains, which belong to the so-called “small caracorum” before the Chogolisa. From its southwest wall, the Masherbrum Glacier flows south to the Hushetal. The southeast side of the mountain drains through the Gondogorogletscher, which starts further east at the Gondogoro La and also flows to the hushetal. Western, northwest and north-east wall dine liligo, mandu- and yermanendu glacier that flow north to the Baltorogletscher.
The 7163 m High secondary summit Yermanendu Kangri So far it has been undisturbed.
This distinctive mountain was found in 1856 by Thomas George Montgomerie, a relative of the British Royal Engineers , discovered and he gave him the name K1 (Significant the summit 1, namely that of the first a number of very high mountains in the Karakorum from west to east). The locals call the Mountain Masherbrum. This name is very likely out of the morphemes mashadar (Front loader) and brum (Mountain) together. (The omission of final syllables in composite is common in the Balti language.) The name refers to the similarity of the mountain with an old rifle. [first]
Probably the lightest, if not simple route, leads over the southeast ridge, which you can reach over the Masherbrum glacier flowing south. Access does not take place from the Baltorogletscher, but from the south to the Hushe valley, into which the Shyok is not far from its mouth to the Indus.
The first ascent took place in 1960 by a American-Pakistani expedition. On July 6, 1960, George Irving Bell (1926–2000) and Willi Unsoeld were successful. On July 8, 1960, Jawed Akhter and Nick Clinch also reached the summit. [2]
The 7806 meter high southwest summit was the goal of a Polish expedition in 1981. Andrzej Heinrich, Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki reached the then still undesigned summit of the Karakorum on September 17th. During the descent, Malatynski and Nowacki froze frozen in the nightly emergency bionwak on the southwest ridge. Heinrich survived because he was the only one on the leeward of the ridge. In the further descent, he fell and fell about 200 to 300 meters deep, without seriously injured, and certainly reached the base camp. [3]
In 1985, routes on the north side of the mountain rose for the first time in the third and fourth climbing of the mountain:
The difficult north wall was first arranged by Japanese mountaineers under the direction of Shin Kashu. The route led from the Yermanendu glacier to the Nordgrat, because of avalanche danger, later the northwest ridge and then traversed into the northwest wall. All 10 climbers reached the summit on July 23, 1985.
An Austrian expedition under Robert Renzler opened another route almost simultaneously in the 3600 meter high northwest wall. The starting point was the mandu glacier. The route offers rock climbing up to the VI. Degree. Michi Larcher, Andreas Orgler and Robert Renzler reached the summit on July 24, 22 hours after the Japanese. A British expedition, on the other hand, failed due to the climbing of the east ridge of the Yermanendu glacier. [4]
The 3,500 m high northeast wall-according to David Lama “an Eiger north wall with a Cerro Torre on top”-has not yet been successfully climbed (as of February 2021). [5]
- Reinhold Messner, Alessandro Gogna: K2. Mountain of the mountains . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich o. J.
- ↑ H. Adams Carter: Balti Place Names in the Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1975 (AAJ Online) (PDF; 1.7 MB), accessed on November 17, 2012.
- ↑ William Unsoeld: Masherbrum–1960. In: American Alpine Journal 1961, pp. 208–229 and picture boards (AAJO). (PDF; 5.1 MB), Access on October 6, 2011.
- ↑ Józef Nyka: Masherbrum Southwest, Ascent and Tragedy. In: American Alpine Journal 1982, S. 271f. (AAJO) , accessed November 17, 2012.
- ↑ Sadao Tambe: Masherbrum from the Northwest and Broad Peak. /Robert Renzler: Masherbrum, Northwest Face. /Michael Searle: Masherbrum Attempt and Geological Expedition. In: American Alpine Journal 1986, S. 275–278 (AAJO) , Access on October 6, 2011.
- ↑ Simon Schreyer: The 10 last alpine challenges. In: Bergwelten.com. February 28, 2021, accessed on October 1, 2021 .
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