Marie-Louise Carven-Wikipédia

Carmen de Tommaso

Marie-Louise Carven -Grog ^{[ first ] , [ 2 ]} , also known by his birth name Marie-Louise Carmen de Tommaso ^{[ 3 ]} , born August 31, 1909 in Châtellerault in Vienne and died the June 8, 2015 ^{[ 4 ]} , is a French and founder of the Carven house. She has been just among nations since 2000 and promoted commander of the Legion of Honor in 2009.

Family [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

Daughter of André de Tommaso and Louise Piérard, she had two brothers: René and Guy and a sister: Lola. Only Guy invested by his side in his fashion house had a girl. Not having had a child, she leaves her niece of her niece of Tommaso and her little-niece Sophie Grinfeld de Tommaso and her grand-nephew Julien Grinfeld as the only blood line.

She was married to Philippe Mallet (brother of Robert Mallet-Stevens), then to René Grog (1896-1981) Swiss Swiss industrialist ^{[ 5 ]} .

Fashion career [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

Carmen de Tommaso studies architecture and interior design at the Paris School of Fine Arts and then heads for fashion because it is small (she measures 1.55 m ), she has trouble dressing. After taking the pseudonym of M ^me Carven (born from the contraction of his first name and the name of his aunt, M ^me Boyriven, who took her younger visiting the Parisian haute couture houses), she founded in 1945 the Haute Couture house which bears her name, the same year as Pierre Balmain. The consecration comes quickly; In 1949, Jacqueline François sings “Dresses from Carven” in the song Mademoiselle de Paris .
With the Lebigeot Corseatière, she invented the Balconnet (1950).

She will have actresses like Martine Carol, Leslie Caron or Michèle Morgan or even singer Edith Piaf as clients. She also makes the wedding dress of M ^me Valéry Giscard d’Estaing ^{[ 6 ]} .

She is among the first to present her collections abroad (Brazil, Portugal, Egypt, Iran) and introduces ethnic motifs (African Boubous, Indonesian Batiks, Raphia and Cotton embroidery, oriental motifs).

Her dresses also have great success with Japanese women, often small, because she knows how to give them the centimeters they are missing. She deserves her nickname “Smaller of the big couturiers” given by journalist Lucien François ^{[ 7 ]} .

Didier Grumbach underlines that “She was the first to dare to do ready-to-wear, she was revolutionary” ^{[Ref. necessary]} .

She donates a hundred works of French objects from the XVIII ^{It is} century at the Louvre museum ^{[ 8 ]} In 1973, a donation for which she received the “Distinctions of great patron and great donor of the Ministry of Culture” ^{[ 9 ]} . On this occasion, Renaud Dondieu de Vabres dit de Carmen de Tommaso that “It has largely contributed to imposing French elegance as an international reference ^{[ ten ]} » . The Louvre museum opened a grog-carven room in 1997 ^{[ first ]} .

She retired in 1993, and was appointed knight of the Legion of Honor in October 1995 by the Minister of Culture Philippe Douste-Blazy. In 1999, she founded the René-Grog association under the law of 1901-Marie-Louise-Carven, which notably created the Grog-Carven Bourse, intended for students in fashion schools and students from the specialized Louvre school school In history of decorative arts.

In August 2000 , she is recognized as just among the nations ^{[ 11 ] , [ twelfth ]} .

She is promoted commander of the Legion of Honor ^{[ 2 ] , [ 13 ] , [ 14 ]} in 2009 and received the tie of the order in November 2010 During a ceremony presided over by the Minister of Culture bringing together Paco Rabanne and fashion journalist Claude Brouet.

Filmography [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

• Interview with Madame Carven, haute couture stylist , Documentary produced by Fernando Malverde, FR3-île-de-France, Vanves, 1994, 20 ‘

external links [ modifier | Modifier and code ]