Three main northern faces of the Alps – Wikipedia

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  • photo de la face nord des Grandes Jorasses

    Face nord des Grandes Jorasses

  • photo de la face nord du Cervin
  • photo de la face nord de l'Eiger
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THE Three main northern faces of the Alps are the northern faces of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont-Blanc massif, the Tervin in the Valais Alps, and the Eiger in the Bernese Alps. Gravies for the first time in the 1930s, after many attempts and sometimes dramas, they remained the touchstone of alinism of difficulty.

These three northern faces were climbed in the 1930s by German or Austrian mountaineers. The northern face of the Tervin (4,477 m ) is engraved And by the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid [ first ] , [ 2 ] , that of the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m ), by Martin Meier and Rudolf Peters, from 28 to [ 3 ] , [ 4 ] , that of the Eiger (3,970 m ) from 21 to Par Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer et Fritz Kasparek [ 5 ] , [ 6 ] .

It was Fritz Kasparek, in 1938, who first advanced the notion of the three major alpine problems (“Drei Großen WandProbleme”), in the work co -wrote with his Cordée companions after the first in the northern face of the Eiger [ 7 ] . The expression is taken up by Anderl Heckmair for his 1949 work The last three problems of the Alps , translated into French in 1951 under the title The last three problems of the Alps [ 8 ] , which does a lot for the reputation of the three faces [ 9 ] .

The first to have climbed the three faces is Gaston Rébuffat, who succeeded in The second ascent of the Walker in the Jorasses, with Édouard Frendo, the fifth of the Schmid path to the Matterhorn With Raymond Simond, and the northern face of Eiger with his client Paul Habran, Guido Magnone, Pierre Leroux and Jean Brunaud in 1952. But on the northern three sides of Kasparek and Heckmair, he adds three others in his book Stars and storms (1954) and the homonymous film shot with Georges Tairraz and Maurice Baquet in 1955: those of the Drus in the Mont-Blanc massif, Piz Badile in the Bernina chain, and Cima Grande Di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. These three north faces had also been climbed in the 1930s: Cima Grande Di Lavaredo by Emilio Comici and the Giovanni brothers and Angelo Dimai the 13 and , the Drus by Pierre Allain and René Leininger in 1935, and the Badile Piz by Cassin, Ratti and Esposito, from 14 to , with Molteni and Valsecchi who died of exhaustion, one on the rise, he was hoisted at the top so as not to be left on the Swiss side, the other at the descent.

  • First: And by the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid [ 2 ] .
  • First winter: Couple Hilti von the general a Paul after.
  • 1965: Bonatti , open in winter and solo, by Walter Bonatti, who thus ends his mountaineer career.
  • 1977: Lonely lonely winter of the classic path of the Schmid brothers by the Japanese Tsuneo Hasegawa.
  • 1994: Catherine DESTIVELLE completed the first solo rehearsal and in winter, 29 years later, of the Bonatti , thus signing the first female of this ascent.

The ascent of the three North Cervin faces, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger (triptych) [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

The first mountaineer to have climbed these three northern faces is the Gaston Rébuffat guide, to which the famous Tre Cime Di Lavaredo must be added during rehearsals, sometimes even the first repetitions of the open tracks in the thirties, and in rope. A remarkable feat just after the war of 39-45.

The first mountaineer to have climbed these three northern solo sides is the Ivano Ghirardini guide who also climbed these three northern face in winter as well as in winter and alone, all during his trilogy of these three main northern faces winter course 1977-1978

The second mountaineer to have climbed these three northern, solo, winter and solitary winter faces is the Japanese guide Tsuneo Hasegawa from 1977 to 1979.

It should be noted that neither René Desmaison, Walter Bonatti, nor Reinhold Messner climbed these three northern faces solo, in winter and in solitary winter.

It should be noted that the ascent of these three northern faces, in solitary winter by different difficulty guidelines, is a feat that was tempted by the guide Lionel Daudet.

Related articles [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

Bibliography [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

  • Anderl Heckmair , The last three problems of the Alps [“The last three problems of the Alps”], Arthaud, ( first re ed. 1949)
  • Sylvain Joout and Hubert Odier , Mountain dictionary Paris, all , 1065 p. (ISBN  978-2-258-07980-9 And 2-258-07980-2 , read online )
  • Gaston Rébuffat, Stars and storms , Hoëbeke, 1954

Filmography [ modifier | Modifier and code ]

  1. ↑ Jouty and Odier 2009, “Tervin”
  2. ↑ A B and C Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf, Hermann Biner it Vincent Theel, Cervin/Dent Blanche, Weisshorn: Du Col Collon Au Theodulpass , editions of the Swiss Alpine Club, , 658 p. (ISBN  978-3-85902-340-6 ) , p. 621 .
  3. ↑ Jouty and Odier 2009, « Jorasses (Grandes) »
  4. ↑ a et b Georges Livanos , Cassin: Once upon a time the sixth degree , Arthaud, , 204 p. (ISBN  978-2-403-03092-1 , read online ) , chap. VII (“The Great Year”) .
  5. ↑ Jouty and Odier 2009, « Eiger »
  6. ↑ a et b Pierre Courthion , The mountain , Larousse, , 475 p. ( read online ) , p. 311 .
  7. ↑ (of) Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek et Heinrich Harrer, To the Eiger north wall , Central publisher of the NDSAP – F. Rather, ( Online presentation ) .
  8. ↑ Paul Veyret « Heckmair (A.). – The last three problems of the Alps. », Alpine geography review , vol. 40, n O 3, , p. 539–540 ( read online )
  9. ↑ Jouty and Odier 2009, « Heckmair (Anderl) »
  10. ↑ (in) ‘ Steck clocks a 2h 22m summit of the Heckmair Route » .
  11. ↑ ‘ Record of speed – Dani Arnold broke the ascent record on the north face of the Matterhorn » (consulted the ) .

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