[{"@context":"http:\/\/schema.org\/","@type":"BlogPosting","@id":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2en\/wiki32\/three-main-northern-faces-of-the-alps-wikipedia\/#BlogPosting","mainEntityOfPage":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2en\/wiki32\/three-main-northern-faces-of-the-alps-wikipedia\/","headline":"Three main northern faces of the Alps – Wikipedia","name":"Three main northern faces of the Alps – Wikipedia","description":"before-content-x4 A wikipedia article, free l’encyclop\u00e9i. Face nord des Grandes Jorasses after-content-x4 THE Three main northern faces of the Alps","datePublished":"2017-01-27","dateModified":"2017-01-27","author":{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2en\/wiki32\/author\/lordneo\/#Person","name":"lordneo","url":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2en\/wiki32\/author\/lordneo\/","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/44a4cee54c4c053e967fe3e7d054edd4?s=96&d=mm&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/44a4cee54c4c053e967fe3e7d054edd4?s=96&d=mm&r=g","height":96,"width":96}},"publisher":{"@type":"Organization","name":"Enzyklop\u00e4die","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/wiki4\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/download.jpg","url":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/wiki4\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/download.jpg","width":600,"height":60}},"image":{"@type":"ImageObject","@id":"https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/4\/49\/GrandesJorasses.jpg\/135px-GrandesJorasses.jpg","url":"https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/thumb\/4\/49\/GrandesJorasses.jpg\/135px-GrandesJorasses.jpg","height":"120","width":"90"},"url":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2en\/wiki32\/three-main-northern-faces-of-the-alps-wikipedia\/","wordCount":3134,"articleBody":"     (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});before-content-x4A wikipedia article, free l’encyclop\u00e9i. Face nord des Grandes Jorasses       (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});after-content-x4THE Three main northern faces of the Alps are the northern faces of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont-Blanc massif, the Tervin in the Valais Alps, and the Eiger in the Bernese Alps. Gravies for the first time in the 1930s, after many attempts and sometimes dramas, they remained the touchstone of alinism of difficulty.          (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});after-content-x4These three northern faces were climbed in the 1930s by German or Austrian mountaineers. The northern face of the Tervin (4,477 m ) is engraved July 31 And first is August 1931 by the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid [ first ] , [ 2 ] , that of the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m ), by Martin Meier and Rudolf Peters, from 28 to June 29, 1935 [ 3 ] , [ 4 ] , that of the Eiger (3,970 m ) from 21 to July 24, 1938 Par Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig V\u00f6rg, Heinrich Harrer et Fritz Kasparek [ 5 ] , [ 6 ] . It was Fritz Kasparek, in 1938, who first advanced the notion of the three major alpine problems (“Drei Gro\u00dfen WandProbleme”), in the work co -wrote with his Cord\u00e9e companions after the first in the northern face of the Eiger [ 7 ] . The expression is taken up by Anderl Heckmair for his 1949 work The last three problems of the Alps , translated into French in 1951 under the title The last three problems of the Alps [ 8 ] , which does a lot for the reputation of the three faces [ 9 ] . The first to have climbed the three faces is Gaston R\u00e9buffat, who succeeded in July 1945 The second ascent of the Walker in the Jorasses, with \u00c9douard Frendo, the fifth of the Schmid path to the Matterhorn June 1949 With Raymond Simond, and the northern face of Eiger with his client Paul Habran, Guido Magnone, Pierre Leroux and Jean Brunaud in 1952. But on the northern three sides of Kasparek and Heckmair, he adds three others in his book Stars and storms (1954) and the homonymous film shot with Georges Tairraz and Maurice Baquet in 1955: those of the Drus in the Mont-Blanc massif, Piz Badile in the Bernina chain, and Cima Grande Di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. These three north faces had also been climbed in the 1930s: Cima Grande Di Lavaredo by Emilio Comici and the Giovanni brothers and Angelo Dimai the 13 and August 14, 1933 , the Drus by Pierre Allain and Ren\u00e9 Leininger in 1935, and the Badile Piz by Cassin, Ratti and Esposito, from 14 to July 16, 1937 , with Molteni and Valsecchi who died of exhaustion, one on the rise, he was hoisted at the top so as not to be left on the Swiss side, the other at the descent. First: July 31 And first is August 1931 by the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid [ 2 ] . First winter: February 4, 1962 Couple Hilti von the general a Paul after. 1965: Bonatti , open in winter and solo, by Walter Bonatti, who thus ends his mountaineer career. 1977: Lonely lonely winter of the classic path of the Schmid brothers by the Japanese Tsuneo Hasegawa. 1994: Catherine DESTIVELLE completed the first solo rehearsal and in winter, 29 years later, of the Bonatti , thus signing the first female of this ascent. Table of Contents       (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});after-content-x4The ascent of the three North Cervin faces, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger (triptych) [ modifier | Modifier and code ] Related articles [ modifier | Modifier and code ] Bibliography [ modifier | Modifier and code ] Filmography [ modifier | Modifier and code ] The ascent of the three North Cervin faces, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger (triptych) [ modifier | Modifier and code ] The first mountaineer to have climbed these three northern faces is the Gaston R\u00e9buffat guide, to which the famous Tre Cime Di Lavaredo must be added during rehearsals, sometimes even the first repetitions of the open tracks in the thirties, and in rope. A remarkable feat just after the war of 39-45. The first mountaineer to have climbed these three northern solo sides is the Ivano Ghirardini guide who also climbed these three northern face in winter as well as in winter and alone, all during his trilogy of these three main northern faces winter course 1977-1978 The second mountaineer to have climbed these three northern, solo, winter and solitary winter faces is the Japanese guide Tsuneo Hasegawa from 1977 to 1979. It should be noted that neither Ren\u00e9 Desmaison, Walter Bonatti, nor Reinhold Messner climbed these three northern faces solo, in winter and in solitary winter. It should be noted that the ascent of these three northern faces, in solitary winter by different difficulty guidelines, is a feat that was tempted by the guide Lionel Daudet. Related articles [ modifier | Modifier and code ] Bibliography [ modifier | Modifier and code ] Anderl Heckmair , The last three problems of the Alps [“The last three problems of the Alps”], Arthaud, 1951 ( first re  ed. 1949) Sylvain Joout and Hubert Odier , Mountain dictionary Paris, all 2009 , 1065 p.  (ISBN\u00a0 978-2-258-07980-9 And 2-258-07980-2 , read online ) Gaston R\u00e9buffat, Stars and storms , Ho\u00ebbeke, 1954 Filmography [ modifier | Modifier and code ] \u2191 Jouty and Odier 2009, “Tervin”  \u2191 A B and C Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf, Hermann Biner it Vincent Theel, Cervin\/Dent Blanche, Weisshorn: Du Col Collon Au Theodulpass , editions of the Swiss Alpine Club, 2012 , 658 p.  (ISBN\u00a0 978-3-85902-340-6 ) , p. 621 .  \u2191 Jouty and Odier 2009, \u00ab\u00a0Jorasses (Grandes)\u00a0\u00bb  \u2191 a et b Georges Livanos , Cassin: Once upon a time the sixth degree , Arthaud, 1983 , 204 p.  (ISBN\u00a0 978-2-403-03092-1 , read online ) , chap. VII (“The Great Year”) .  \u2191 Jouty and Odier 2009, \u00ab\u00a0Eiger\u00a0\u00bb  \u2191 a et b Pierre Courthion , The mountain , Larousse, 1956 , 475 p.  ( read online ) , p. 311 .  \u2191 (of) Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig V\u00f6rg, Fritz Kasparek et Heinrich Harrer, To the Eiger north wall , Central publisher of the NDSAP – F. Rather, 1938 ( Online presentation ) .  \u2191 Paul Veyret \u00ab Heckmair (A.). – The last three problems of the Alps. \u00bb, Alpine geography review , vol. 40, n O 3, 1952 , p. 539\u2013540 ( read online )  \u2191 Jouty and Odier 2009, \u00ab\u00a0Heckmair (Anderl)\u00a0\u00bb  \u2191 (in)  ‘ Steck clocks a 2h 22m summit of the Heckmair Route \u00bb .  \u2191 ‘ Record of speed – Dani Arnold broke the ascent record on the north face of the Matterhorn \u00bb  (consulted the first erMay 2015 ) .         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