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[]).push({});after-content-x4\u98a8\u306e\u901f\u5ea6\u304c\u6ce2\u306e\u901f\u5ea6\u3088\u308a\u3082\u9ad8\u3044\u5834\u5408\u3001\u98a8\u306f\u6c34\u306b\u6ce2\u306e\u30a8\u30cd\u30eb\u30ae\u30fc\u3092\u4f1d\u9054\u3057\u307e\u3059\u3002\u6700\u4f4e\u98a8\u306e\u901f\u5ea6\u306f6.3 m\/s\u3067\u3059 [3] \u3002\u6ce2\u306f\u30a8\u30cd\u30eb\u30ae\u30fc\u306b\u6c17\u3092\u53d6\u3089\u308c\u3066\u3044\u308b\u305f\u3081\u3001\u7279\u5b9a\u306e\u98a8\u901f\u3067\u306f\u3001\u305d\u308c\u304c\u5f15\u304d\u8d77\u3053\u3059\u53ef\u80fd\u6027\u306e\u3042\u308b\u6700\u5927\u6ce2\u306e\u9ad8\u3055\u304c\u3042\u308a\u307e\u3059\u3002\u6ce2\u306e\u9ad8\u3055\u304c\u7279\u5b9a\u306e\u98a8\u306e\u6700\u5927\u30b5\u30a4\u30ba\u306b\u307e\u3060\u9054\u3057\u3066\u3044\u306a\u3044\u5834\u5408\u3001\u6ce2\u304c\u6700\u5927\u30b5\u30a4\u30ba\u306b\u9054\u3059\u308b\u3068\u6ce2\u304c\u4e0d\u660e\u3068\u547c\u3070\u308c\u307e\u3059\u3002 [2]  W. Munk\u306b\u3088\u308b\u3068\u3001\u6d77\u6ce2\u306e\u30b9\u30da\u30af\u30c8\u30eb\u3068\u5206\u985e \u6ce2\u306e\u5468\u671f\u306b\u3088\u3063\u3066\u306f\u3001\u305d\u306e\u5f8c\u306e\u6ce2\u306e\u30d4\u30fc\u30af\u306e\u9593\u306e\u6642\u9593\u3067\u3042\u308a\u3001\u6d77\u306e\u6ce2\u306f\u306b\u5206\u3051\u308b\u3053\u3068\u304c\u3067\u304d\u307e\u3059 [4] \uff1a \u30af\u30e9\u30b5\u30fb\u30d5\u30a1\u30ea \u6ce2\u306e\u5468\u671f \u30ad\u30e3\u30d4\u30e9\u30ea\u30fc 0.1\u79d2\u672a\u6e80 Ultra -Agreed 0,1  –  1\u79d2 \u91cd\u529b 1\u301c30\u79d2 \u4fb5\u5bb3\u6027 30\u79d2 –  5\u5206 \u9577\u671f 5\u5206 –  12\u6642\u9593 \u30d5\u30e5\u30fc\u30b6\u30fc \u7d0412\u6642\u959324\u6642\u9593 \u4e8c\u6b21 24\u6642\u9593\u4ee5\u4e0a  \u6c34\u6ce2\u3002 a  – \u6df1\u3055\u3067\u306f\u3001\u7c92\u5b50\u306e\u8eca\u8f2a\u4ed8\u304d\u306e\u52d5\u304d\u306f\u6df1\u3055\u3068\u3068\u3082\u306b\u6e1b\u5c11\u3057\u307e\u3059\u3002 b  – \u6d45\u702c\u306b\u3002\u4ea4\u901a\u306f\u6955\u5186\u5f62\u306b\u5e73\u3089\u306b\u306a\u308a\u307e\u3059 – \u6c34\u304c\u3088\u308a\u6d45\u304f\u306a\u308a\u307e\u3059\u3002 \u521d\u3081  – \u4f1d\u64ad\u65b9\u5411\u3002 2  – \u632f\u308b\u3002 3  – \u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u30d6\u30d0\u30ec\u30fc  \u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u30d6\u30d1\u30e9\u30e1\u30fc\u30bf\u30fc [ \u7de8\u96c6 | \u30b3\u30fc\u30c9\u3092\u7de8\u96c6\u3057\u307e\u3059 ] \u57fa\u672c\u7684\u306a\u6ce2\u306e\u30d1\u30e9\u30e1\u30fc\u30bf\u30fc\u306f\u3067\u3059 [5] \uff1a \u9ad8\u3055 – \u80cc\u9762\u3068\u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u30d6\u30d0\u30ec\u30fc\u306e\u9ad8\u3055\u306e\u9055\u3044\u3001 \u6ce2\u9577 – \u540c\u3058\u4f4d\u76f8\u306e\u6ce2\u306e\u9023\u7d9a\u3057\u305f\u5834\u6240\u9593\u306e\u8ddd\u96e2\uff08\u4f8b\u3048\u3070\u3001\u5c3e\u6839\u306e\u9593\uff09\u3001 \u671f\u9593 – \u6ce2\u306e2\u3064\u306e\u5c3e\u6839\u306e\u9078\u629e\u3055\u308c\u305f\u30dd\u30a4\u30f3\u30c8\u3092\u901a\u904e\u3059\u308b\u9077\u79fb\u306e\u9593\u3092\u901a\u904e\u3059\u308b\u6642\u9593\u3001 \u6ce2\u3092\u6d78\u3059 – \u6ce2\u306e\u9ad8\u3055\u3068\u305d\u306e\u9577\u3055\u306e\u6bd4\u7387\u3002 \u6ce2\u306e\u80cc\u4e2d\u306e\u52d5\u304d\u306e\u901f\u5ea6\u3067\u3042\u308b\u4f4d\u76f8\u901f\u5ea6\u306f\u3001\u6ce2\u9577\u304c\u5e83\u304c\u308b\u6ce2\u9577\u3068\u6c34\u306e\u6df1\u3055\u306b\u4f9d\u5b58\u3057\u307e\u3059\u3002\u6df1\u6d77\u3068\u4e2d\u7a0b\u5ea6\u306e\u6df1\u3044\u6c34\u306e\u5834\u5408\u3001\u30d1\u30bf\u30fc\u30f3\u306f\u305d\u308c\u3092\u3046\u307e\u304f\u5c0e\u5165\u3057\u307e\u3059\uff1a s = g\u03bb2\u03c0tanh\u2061(2\u03c0d\u03bb)\u3001 {displaystyle s = {sqrt {{frac {glambda} {2pi}} tanh left\uff08{frac {2pi d} {lambda}}\u53f3\uff09}}\u3001} \u3069\u3053\uff1a s {displaystyleS}  – \u6ce2\u76f8\u901f\u5ea6\u3001 l {displaystyle lambda}  – \u6ce2\u9577\u3001 d {displaystyle d} – \u6c34\u6df1\u3001 g {displaystyle g}  – \u5730\u4e0a\u306e\u52a0\u901f\u3002 \u6d45\u3044\u6c34\u306e\u5834\u5408\u3001\u4f4d\u76f8\u901f\u5ea6\u306f\u8fd1\u4f3c\u3092\u8aac\u660e\u3057\u307e\u3059 Boussinesq \u3002 \u9ad8\u3055\u3068\u6ce2\u9577\u306f\u3001\u98a8\u901f\u3001\u305d\u306e\u5b89\u5b9a\u6027\u3001\u307e\u305f\u306f\u6d41\u57df\u306e\u6df1\u3055\u306a\u3069\u306e\u8981\u56e0\u306b\u4f9d\u5b58\u3057\u307e\u3059\u3002 \u98a8\u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u30d6\u30bf\u30a4\u30d7 [ \u7de8\u96c6 | \u30b3\u30fc\u30c9\u3092\u7de8\u96c6\u3057\u307e\u3059 ] \u73fe\u50cf\u3001 \u8a2d\u7acb\u3001 \u6df7\u5408\u3002 \u6700\u3082\u4e00\u822c\u7684\u306a\u98a8\u306e\u6ce2\u306b\u52a0\u3048\u3066\u3001\u4ed6\u306e\u30bf\u30a4\u30d7\u306e\u6ce2\u3082\u4ed6\u306e\u8981\u56e0\u306b\u3088\u3063\u3066\u533a\u5225\u3055\u308c\u307e\u3059\u3002 \u2191  Yuri M. Y.M.  \u30b7\u30e5\u30c6\u30e0\u30e9\u30fc  Yuri M. Y.M. \u79c1\u306f\u30a4\u30cb \u3001 Kelvin-Helmholtz\u3068Miles Mech Anisms Anisms of Wave Generation by Wind\u306e\u6f38\u8fd1\u30e2\u30c7\u30eb  \u3002  \u2191 a b  \u98a8\u306e\u6ce2 \u3002 [\u30a2\u30af\u30bb\u30b92017-06-30]\u3002 [\u30a2\u30fc\u30ab\u30a4\u30d6 \u3053\u306e\u30a2\u30c9\u30ec\u30b9 \uff082012-07-17\uff09]\u3002  \u2191  \u30a2\u30f3\u30ca\u30fb\u30d1\u30ad\u30a8\u3001\u30d5\u30ec\u30c7\u30ea\u30c3\u30af\u30fb\u30e2\u30a4\u30b8\u30fc\u3001\u30de\u30fc\u30af\u30fb\u30e9\u30dc\u30fc\u3002 \u7c98\u6027\u6db2\u4f53\u3092\u5439\u304d\u98db\u3070\u3059\u98a8\u306b\u3088\u308b\u8868\u9762\u5909\u5f62\u3068\u6ce2\u306e\u751f\u6210 \u3002 \u300c\u6db2\u4f53\u306e\u7269\u7406\u5b66\u300d\u3002 27\uff0812\uff09\u3001s\u3002 122103\u30012015\u3002doi\uff1a 10.1063\/1,4936395 \u3002   \u2191  \u30a6\u30a9\u30eb\u30bf\u30fcH. W.H.  \u30de\u30f3\u30af  \u30a6\u30a9\u30eb\u30bf\u30fcH. W.H. \u3001 WACES\u306e\u8d77\u6e90\u3068\u751f\u6210 \u3001\u30ab\u30ea\u30d5\u30a9\u30eb\u30cb\u30a2\u5dde\u306e\u30b9\u30af\u30ea\u30c3\u30d7\u30b9\u6d77\u6d0b\u5b66\u7814\u7a76\u6240\u30011951\u5e74  \u3002  \u2191  \u30b9\u30bf\u30cb\u30b9\u30ef\u30d5\u30fb\u30de\u30bb\u30eb\u3001\u30ac\u30d6\u30ea\u30a8\u30e9\u30fb\u30b0\u30eb\u30fc\u30b6\uff1a \u6d77\u306e\u30c0\u30a4\u30ca\u30df\u30af\u30b9\u3001\u6ce2 \u3002 2005. [\u30a2\u30af\u30bb\u30b92018-12-09]\u3002        (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});after-content-x4"},{"@context":"http:\/\/schema.org\/","@type":"BreadcrumbList","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"item":{"@id":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2jp\/wiki47\/#breadcrumbitem","name":"Enzyklop\u00e4die"}},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"item":{"@id":"https:\/\/wiki.edu.vn\/all2jp\/wiki47\/archives\/2964#breadcrumbitem","name":"Waving -Wikipedia\u3001\u7121\u6599\u767e\u79d1\u4e8b\u5178"}}]}]