USA Climbing – Wikipedia

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Govering body for competition climbing

USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States.[1] As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.

USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations:[1] the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC),[2] the International Olympic Committee (IOC),[3] and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee (USOPC).[4][1]

Competition history[edit]

Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history:[5]

  • 1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club.[6]
  • 1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF) is created.
  • 1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA).
  • 2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association (USCCA).
  • 2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today, USA Climbing (USAC).
  • 2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series (ABS).

Competition structure[edit]

Elite[edit]

Any eligible climber aged 16 and older that meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the US in that gender/event is the National Champion.

Youth[edit]

Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups:

  • Junior   (18-19 years old)
  • Youth A (16-17 years old)
  • Youth B (14-15 years old)
  • Youth C (12-13 years old)
  • Youth D (≤11 years old)

The US is subdivided into 8 Divisions and 16 Regions.[7] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions, may compete at their respective Regional Championships.[8] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to compete at their respective Divisional Championships. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at the Divisional Championships receive an invitation to compete at the National Championships.[7] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at the National Championships are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are eligible to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.

Collegiate[edit]

Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.[9]

Adaptive[edit]

Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing.[10]

Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.[10]

Elite bouldering[edit]

The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.[11]

Male[edit]

Female[edit]

Elite lead[edit]

The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level[11]

Male[edit]

Female[edit]

Elite speed[edit]

Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.

Male[edit]

Female[edit]

Current US speed climbing records[edit]

USA Climbing previously recognized official speed climbing time records in the Elite category only. Effective with the 2023 competitive climbing season USA Climbing will begin to officially recognize Speed climbing records for the Youth age group categories in addition to Elite. Historically youth records were kept for developmental purposes since no official standards were utilized. Official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, and IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups are contested. No records are kept for youth age groups C and D since the speed climbing routes are different at every competition.

Men’s 15 meter 10 meter
Time (seconds) Athlete Time (seconds) Athlete
Elite 5.20 John Brosler[53] 3.95 John Brosler[46]
Junior 5.86 Micah Liss [54] 4.03 Noah Bratschi[55]
Youth A 5.37 Sam Watson [56] 4.34 John Brosler[57]
Youth B 6.18 Sam Watson[58] 5.03 Michael Retoff[59]
Women’s 15 meter 10 meter
Time (seconds) Athlete Time (seconds) Athlete
Elite 7.19 Emma Hunt[60] 5.64 Claire Buhrfeind
Junior 7.55 Emma Hunt[58] 5.80 Piper Kelly[55]
Youth A 8.02 Callie Close [58] 5.88 Grace McKeehan[61]
Youth B 8.55 Callie Close [62] 6.33 Sidney Trinidad[63]

History of the US speed climbing record[edit]

Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.

Men’s National Record History
Date Time (s) Athlete Location Competition
May 20, 2022 5.20[64] John Brosler Salt Lake City, Utah 2022 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 2021 5.60[65] John Brosler Salt Lake City, Utah 2021 IFSC World Cup
March 28, 2021 5.62[66] John Brosler Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 2021 5.85[66] Noah Bratschi Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
January 20, 2019 5.99[67] John Brosler Salt Lake City, Utah USA Climbing Combined Invitational
Women’s National Record History
Date Time (s) Athlete Location Competition
July 2, 2021 7.19[60] Emma Hunt Villars, Switzerland 2021 IFSC World Cup
July 2, 2021 7.43[60] Emma Hunt Villars, Switzerland 2021 IFSC World Cup
May 28, 2021 7.52[53] Emma Hunt Salt Lake City, Utah 2021 IFSC World Cup
March 29, 2021 7.56[66] Emma Hunt Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 2021 7.76[66] Emma Hunt Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 29, 2021 7.95[66] Emma Hunt Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 28, 2021 8.04[66] Emma Hunt Memphis, Tennessee USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational
March 1, 2020 8.05[68] Emma Hunt Los Angeles, California IFSC Pan American Championships

Elite team (current)[edit]

The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events.[69]

  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
  • Bouldering National Team – Men
    • Colin Duffy
    • Sean Bailey
    • Dillon Countryman
    • Ross Fulkerson
    • Luke Muehring
  • Bouldering National Team – Women
  • Speed National Team – Men
    • Noah Bratschi
    • John Brosler
    • Sam Watson
    • Merritt Ernsberger
    • Zach Hammer
    • Darren Skolnik
    • Quinn O’francia
  • Speed National Team – Women
    • Callie Close
    • Emma Hunt
    • Piper Kelly
    • Olivia Ma
    • Liberty Runnels
    • Sophia Curcio
  • Lead National Team – Men
    • Colin Duffy
    • Jesse Grupper
    • Sean Bailey
    • Hugo Hoyer
    • Luke Muehring
  • Lead National Team – Women

Elite team (historical)[edit]

2022 – The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events in 2022.[70]

  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
  • Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
  • Bouldering National Team – Men
  • Bouldering National Team – Women
  • Lead National Team – Men
  • Lead National Team – Women
  • Speed National Team – Men
    • Noah Bratschi
    • John Brosler
    • Merritt Ernsberger
    • Joe Goodacre
    • Sam Watson
  • Speed National Team – Women
    • Callie Close
    • Emma Hunt
    • Piper Kelly
    • Olivia Ma
    • Liberty Runnels

2021 – The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021.[71]

  • Men’s Lead Team
  • Men’s Speed Team
  • Men’s Bouldering Team
  • Women’s Lead Team
  • Women’s Speed Team
  • Women’s Bouldering Team

Youth bouldering[edit]

Male Junior[edit]

Female Junior[edit]

Male Youth A[edit]

Female Youth A[edit]

Male Youth B[edit]

Female Youth B[edit]

Male Youth C[edit]

Female Youth C[edit]

Male Youth D[edit]

Female Youth D[edit]

Youth lead[edit]

Male Junior[edit]

Female Junior[edit]

Male Youth A[edit]

Female Youth A[edit]

Male Youth B[edit]

Female Youth B[edit]

Male Youth C[edit]

Female Youth C[edit]

Male Youth D[edit]

Female Youth D[edit]

Youth speed[edit]

Male Junior[edit]

Female Junior[edit]

Male Youth A[edit]

Female Youth A[edit]

Male Youth B[edit]

Female Youth B[edit]

Male Youth C[edit]

Female Youth C[edit]

Male Youth D[edit]

Female Youth D[edit]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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External links[edit]